Vitamin C, retinol and peptides do different jobs and belong at different times of day, which makes them easy to combine once you know the pattern.
At a glance
| Ingredient | What it is used for | When | How to start |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C | Antioxidant support and a brighter-looking complexion | Morning, under moisturizer and SPF | A gentler strength, such as 10% L-ascorbic acid |
| Retinol | The look of fine lines, uneven texture and dullness | Evening | A low strength, two or three evenings a week |
| Peptides | The look of firmer, smoother skin | Morning and evening | Many are comfortable from the start |
Vitamin C: the morning antioxidant
Vitamin C is an antioxidant. In skincare it is used for antioxidant support against daily environmental stressors and for a brighter-looking complexion. L-ascorbic acid is the pure form; derivatives such as ethyl ascorbic acid are used where a more stable form is needed, for example in creams.
- When: in the morning, on clean, dry skin, before moisturizer and SPF.
- Strength: SkinCeuticals Serum 10 AOX+ uses 10% L-ascorbic acid, a gentler start. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic uses 15%, with vitamin E and ferulic acid. Hydrinity Hydri-C puts a vitamin C derivative into a morning moisturizer.
- Storage: vitamin C serums oxidize with air and light. Close the bottle tightly and keep it away from light; if a serum shifts from clear yellow to deep orange or brown, stop using it.
- Stepping up: with a 10% formula such as Serum 10 AOX+, skin adjusts over a period of weeks. Once your tolerance is established, you may choose to move up to a 15% formula after several months.
Retinol: the evening active
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Used consistently in the evening, retinoids help improve the look of fine lines, uneven texture and dullness over time. They can also leave skin feeling dry or flaky at first, which is why the way you start matters.
- Start low and slow: a lower strength two or three evenings a week, increasing only after a couple of weeks of comfortable use. SkinCeuticals Retinol comes in 0.3, 0.5 and 1.0 for exactly this.
- Moisturize after: a moisturizer on top helps skin stay comfortable.
- Keep acids apart at first: for the first month, avoid using retinol and exfoliating acids on the same evening.
- SPF every morning.
- Already comfortable with retinol? ZO Wrinkle + Texture Repair is a 0.5% retinol night cream made for established users.
If you aren't sure whether a retinoid suits your skin, check with a healthcare professional before you start.
Peptides: the easy-going layer
Peptides are short chains of amino acids. In skincare they are used to support the look of firmer, smoother skin, and many peptide serums are comfortable for morning and evening use, including for skin that doesn't get on with retinol.
- ZO Firming Serum is a peptide serum that works in the morning, under SPF.
- Skinbetter Science InterFuse Intensive Treatment Lines is made for the look of expression lines.
- Growth-factor serums often pair growth-factor ingredients with peptides. ZO Growth Factor Serum also contains retinol, so count it as your evening retinoid.
Can you use vitamin C and retinol together?
Yes, in the same routine, at different times of day: vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening. If both are new to you, introduce them one at a time, a couple of weeks apart, so you can see how your skin responds to each.
Common questions
Which goes first, vitamin C or a peptide serum?
Vitamin C first, on clean, dry skin, then the peptide serum, then moisturizer and SPF. As a general rule, apply the thinnest texture first, and follow any label that asks for a specific order.
Can I use peptides and retinol together?
Yes. ZO Firming Serum, for example, is designed to go on first in the evening, with the retinol layered on top.
Can I use vitamin C at night?
The SkinCeuticals vitamin C serums we carry are all described as morning serums, applied under moisturizer and SPF. Keeping vitamin C in the morning also leaves the evening free for retinol.
My skin feels dry since I started retinol. What should I change?
Go back to fewer evenings a week until it settles, and use a moisturizer after your retinol. A richer night cream such as ZO Renewal Creme is rich enough to layer over retinol or other actives.
What about growth factors?
Growth-factor serums pair growth-factor ingredients with peptides, for the look of firmer, smoother skin. ZO Growth Factor Serum also contains retinol, so it takes the place of your retinol on the nights you use it. SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum is used morning and evening, before moisturizer and SPF.
How long before I see a difference?
Give any new active several weeks of consistent use before you judge it. Retinol in particular takes time, which is one more reason to start slowly and stay with it.
Putting them together
- Morning: cleanse, vitamin C, a peptide serum if you use one, moisturizer, SPF.
- Evening: cleanse, retinol on your retinol nights, moisturizer. On the other nights, a peptide serum or an exfoliant.
Where to start
- Vitamin C: SkinCeuticals Serum 10 AOX+ if you are new to it, or Hydrinity Hydri-C if you prefer a cream.
- Retinol: SkinCeuticals Retinol, starting at the 0.3 strength.
- Peptides: ZO Firming Serum, for morning and evening.
Browse vitamin C, retinol and retinoids and growth factors and peptides, or see our layering guide for the full order.
Related guides: SkinCeuticals vitamin C serums compared, retinol strengths explained and growth factor vs peptide serums.